Pacemaker Boat Owners Association

I'm getting ready to do a tank swap in my 36. My plan is to remove the engines and then slide the tanks out through the engine room instead of cutting the deck out. It should be pretty straight forward job once I have good access

Cruiser, I removed one of my tanks from my 25' express. I did not have to pull the engine but removed the exhaust manifold and was able to squeeze it out. What are your tanks made out of? Have you thought of haveing the tank's "polished"?

Cruiser,
I replaced mine, also a 1977 26ft. I got a local shop to make exact duplicates in aluminum. Old ones came out and new ones went in with no big problem; no need to remove engine. Replace all the fuel and vent hoses while you're at it.

I currently have both engines out and plan on replacing both tanks this spring. Like RIch I am going to try to remove them through the engine room.

Has anyone installed the moeller plastic tanks?

Rich- My boat is a 36 SF as well. What do you plan to use for replacements? (type/size, etc)

Once I have them out I am going to take them to my local welding shop (he has done a lot of other projects for me) and have him copy them probably in aluminum.

Please do plenty of research on your choice of materials for fuel tanks. Aluminum has had a long history of problems; and, from almost every marine inspector I've spoken with, it's a poor choice. This is just one link to a surveyor's opinion on aluminum tanks. (http://www.boatsurveyor.com/Articles/aluminum_fuel_tanks.htm) I know there are plenty of others too.

Everyone has an opinion. In the link you posted there was a example of .090 thick material, why anyone would do that is beyond me. It also stated that they recommend .125" (I am guessing Al since it is an aluminum tank page) as the replacement material with chromate primer.

http://www.limarinesurveyor.com/fuel_systems.htm

It might be that you need new tanks, but (from what you said in your question), I'm not so sure.

First of all, you have to find out WHY your tank has rust and dirt on the INSIDE. I'd bet that you have some combination of the 3 things which can screw up your filter: (1) dried-up gasoline (a accumulation of gas that evaporated over the winters); (2) the normal crud which accumulates from the re-filling of your tanks - this comes from the fuel stations' tanks; and (3) condensation from empty tanks over the boat's storage season.

Your engine/filter system is designed to deal with #2 above, but not with the first and third. Either of these last will cause problems; and a combination of these two can cost major engine repairs.

A boatyard can flush out your tanks (and give you the best advice to prevent this problem in future based on your area), otherwise, remove the tank (by removing the engine - you'll have to do this to REPLACE the tank anyways), and flushing it out yourself. I can give you more details on how to do this if you want.