Bilge pump wiring
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On mine I am wired through my DC panel and when I leave the boat everything but the pumps are shut down. My DC panel is split, half to each engine battery. Each pump has a separate battery and the float switch for the aft pump is higher than the main. I am using parallel switching for my starting batteries, including the generator. Worst case if my engine batteries are down I can bring the gen battery on line. Even worse case I have an 8D dedicated to the fridge and a set of jumper cables. After that I pull the battery from the tender. So far so good.
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My 1978 26" Flybridge Cruiser has two bilge pumps with float switches, one under the shaft where it comes out of the transmission and one forward where water collects when the boat is at rest. Both pumps only work when the battery switch is on. I like to turn off the batteries when I leave the boat. This obviously leaves the boat with no way to pump out if there is heavy rain or a surprise leaking problem. Hot wiring to the battery is an option or leaving one of the batteries on at the switch, opinions welcome.
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Hi, Rickforth. If you don't leave the boat unattended for more than a week or two, I would hardwire the forward pump (with a fuse, of course) right to the battery or to the supply terminal of the main battery switch so the pump can run on auto when you are not on board. I have wired several boats that way and never had a problem with it. The chances of having a problem with something else if you leave the main battery switch on are much greater.
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- Diver Duck June 2010
- rickforth June 2010
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